How to Prune Succulents

Succulents are renowned for their low-maintenance nature and minimal pruning requirements. Typically, light trimming is sufficient to maintain their health and appealing shape. For sprawling plants or those beginning to show dead leaves, understanding the best pruning techniques and tips can make a significant difference.

Maintaining Health and Size

Step 1: Pull off older leaves regularly.
Dead leaves often accumulate on the lower parts of succulents. Gently remove these leaves with your fingers to promote plant growth. Leaving them on the stem for too long can delay soil drying, leading to rot. Regular removal of dead leaves also encourages new growth on the stem, sometimes visible immediately after pulling off the dead leaves.

Step 2: Prune your succulents at the beginning of the growing season.
While succulents can be pruned at any time, the start of the growing season is optimal due to the high level of growth during this period. Near the end of the season, new growth slows down. Succulent growth periods vary, so it’s essential to confirm the growing season for your specific type. Generally, flowering varieties should be pruned after they bloom or during their winter dormancy.

Step 3: Avoid watering your succulents 1 to 2 days after pruning to allow growth.
Give the plants and roots time to adjust and heal following pruning. At least one day without watering is ideal. When you resume watering, ensure the plants have enough time to dry afterwards. With proper pruning and ample indirect sunlight, you’ll only need to prune your succulents every few months to a year. Overwatering can lead to root rot, so be cautious.

Creating a Desirable Shape

Step 1: Maintain the natural form of your succulents.
The approach to maintaining natural form varies by succulent type. For yuccas, nolinas, hesperaloes, and dasylirions, avoid removing bloom spikes until blooming is complete. For agave, never remove spikes until after blooming or if you notice agave weevils. Cacti from the Opuntia/Cylindropuntia genus should be pruned at the point where the pads connect. Removing armament, such as spikes or spines, is recommended, especially if the plants are near driveways, sidewalks, or other high-traffic areas.

Step 2: Cut individual branches to shape your succulents.
Gradually shaping your plants by cutting individual branches allows for customized growth. Avoid “topping,” or chopping plants to the same height, as this can severely damage the tree’s health. If any plants outgrow their space, consider replacing them with more suitable varieties.

Step 3: Locate leaves or nodes pointing in the direction of desired growth.
Cut the stems right above the node within 1/2 inch at a 45-degree angle. The new growth should extend in the direction of the leaf or node where it was removed. Remove a maximum of 1/3 of the stem length for each leaf, varying the lengths to add variation to your plant. This technique works best for multi-branched, long-stemmed succulents like crassula and echeveria.

Step 4: Remove elongated plants that are tilted to one side and repot them.
These plants can disrupt the natural shape, so prune them down to a small size that doesn’t cause tilting and grow them in new soil. Tuck the plants tightly into the new soil, spacing them about 1 inch apart to allow room for growth. Map out the new space before repotting to accommodate each plant.

Using Plant-Specific Pruning Techniques

Step 1: Cut off damaged leaves from yuccas and nolinas.
Similar to agaves, these succulents should only be pruned for dead leaves and armament located on the ends of their leaves. Never remove green leaves, as they are crucial for food production and overall plant health. Leave dead leaves on the trunk of taller yuccas and nolinas to protect against water loss during summer and low temperatures during winter.

Step 2: Remove only damaged leaves from dasylirions.
These succulents have similar growth patterns to yuccas and nolinas. Cutting off dead leaves improves appearance but is not necessary. Prune minimally and never cut off green leaves. Avoid sculpting these plants into unnatural patterns, such as spirals, as it can hinder growth.

Step 3: Cut off spent flower stems and dead foliage from hesperaloes.
Focus on maintaining fresh, growing heads and stems. These plants require minimal pruning, so avoid trimming them unnecessarily. Never remove flower spikes before they have bloomed.

Step 4: Trim ocotillo stems that have died or become too tall.
Focus on individual stems that are dead or unruly by cutting them back to their base, allowing remaining stems to continue growing and producing flowers. Never cut them off at the top, as this can stunt plant growth and lead to an unnatural form and height. Cutting ocotillos too high results in thin and irregular branches instead of sturdy ones.

Step 5: Trim cacti at the joints where the pads connect.
Always remove full pads rather than trimming parts of them. It should be easy to determine where the plant was recently pruned. Remove stems that are broken or diseased. For small cacti characterized by columns, such as Cleistocactus, Echinocereus, and Stenocereus, always prune at ground level, never at the top. This preserves their natural shape and prevents numerous cuts susceptible to disease. Avoid using cacti as hedges due to their armament, which can cause harm.

Step 6: Remove spines at the end of agave leaves.
Cut the tips from the end of the leaves as they unfold. Pruning spines can cause browning on the tip of some leaves, but it’s nothing to worry about. Focus on pruning these succulents after they bloom, and only remove whole leaves if they are dying or dead. Planting agave without armament on their leaves and positioning them away from high-traffic areas can eliminate the need for pruning. If agaves become infested with weevils, the entire plant will need to be removed.

By following these detailed guidelines, you can ensure your succulents thrive and maintain their natural beauty. Happy pruning! 🌡

8 thoughts on “How to Prune Succulents”

  1. Арматура Π΄ΠΈΠ°ΠΌΠ΅Ρ‚Ρ€ΠΎΠΌ 32 ΠΌΠΌ, изготовлСнная ΠΈΠ· стали ΠΌΠ°Ρ€ΠΊΠΈ А500Π‘, являСтся ΠΎΠ΄Π½ΠΈΠΌ ΠΈΠ· самых вострСбованных Π²ΠΈΠ΄ΠΎΠ² ΠΌΠ΅Ρ‚Π°Π»Π»ΠΎΠΏΡ€ΠΎΠΊΠ°Ρ‚Π° Π² ΡΡ‚Ρ€ΠΎΠΈΡ‚Π΅Π»ΡŒΡΡ‚Π²Π΅. Она примСняСтся ΠΏΡ€ΠΈ Π²ΠΎΠ·Π²Π΅Π΄Π΅Π½ΠΈΠΈ Ρ„ΡƒΠ½Π΄Π°ΠΌΠ΅Π½Ρ‚ΠΎΠ², Π°Ρ€ΠΌΠΈΡ€ΠΎΠ²Π°Π½ΠΈΠΈ стСн ΠΈ ΠΏΠ΅Ρ€Π΅ΠΌΡ‹Ρ‡Π΅ΠΊ. https://armatura32.ru

    Reply
  2. Арматура Π΄ΠΈΠ°ΠΌΠ΅Ρ‚Ρ€ΠΎΠΌ 32 ΠΌΠΌ, изготовлСнная ΠΈΠ· стали ΠΌΠ°Ρ€ΠΊΠΈ А500Π‘, являСтся ΠΎΠ΄Π½ΠΈΠΌ ΠΈΠ· самых вострСбованных Π²ΠΈΠ΄ΠΎΠ² ΠΌΠ΅Ρ‚Π°Π»Π»ΠΎΠΏΡ€ΠΎΠΊΠ°Ρ‚Π° Π² ΡΡ‚Ρ€ΠΎΠΈΡ‚Π΅Π»ΡŒΡΡ‚Π²Π΅. Она примСняСтся ΠΏΡ€ΠΈ Π²ΠΎΠ·Π²Π΅Π΄Π΅Π½ΠΈΠΈ Ρ„ΡƒΠ½Π΄Π°ΠΌΠ΅Π½Ρ‚ΠΎΠ², Π°Ρ€ΠΌΠΈΡ€ΠΎΠ²Π°Π½ΠΈΠΈ стСн ΠΈ ΠΏΠ΅Ρ€Π΅ΠΌΡ‹Ρ‡Π΅ΠΊ. https://armatura32.ru

    Reply
  3. Арматура Π΄ΠΈΠ°ΠΌΠ΅Ρ‚Ρ€ΠΎΠΌ 32 ΠΌΠΌ, изготовлСнная ΠΈΠ· стали ΠΌΠ°Ρ€ΠΊΠΈ А500Π‘, являСтся ΠΎΠ΄Π½ΠΈΠΌ ΠΈΠ· самых вострСбованных Π²ΠΈΠ΄ΠΎΠ² ΠΌΠ΅Ρ‚Π°Π»Π»ΠΎΠΏΡ€ΠΎΠΊΠ°Ρ‚Π° Π² ΡΡ‚Ρ€ΠΎΠΈΡ‚Π΅Π»ΡŒΡΡ‚Π²Π΅. Она примСняСтся ΠΏΡ€ΠΈ Π²ΠΎΠ·Π²Π΅Π΄Π΅Π½ΠΈΠΈ Ρ„ΡƒΠ½Π΄Π°ΠΌΠ΅Π½Ρ‚ΠΎΠ², Π°Ρ€ΠΌΠΈΡ€ΠΎΠ²Π°Π½ΠΈΠΈ стСн ΠΈ ΠΏΠ΅Ρ€Π΅ΠΌΡ‹Ρ‡Π΅ΠΊ. https://armatura32.ru

    Reply
  4. Арматура Π΄ΠΈΠ°ΠΌΠ΅Ρ‚Ρ€ΠΎΠΌ 32 ΠΌΠΌ, изготовлСнная ΠΈΠ· стали ΠΌΠ°Ρ€ΠΊΠΈ А500Π‘, являСтся ΠΎΠ΄Π½ΠΈΠΌ ΠΈΠ· самых вострСбованных Π²ΠΈΠ΄ΠΎΠ² ΠΌΠ΅Ρ‚Π°Π»Π»ΠΎΠΏΡ€ΠΎΠΊΠ°Ρ‚Π° Π² ΡΡ‚Ρ€ΠΎΠΈΡ‚Π΅Π»ΡŒΡΡ‚Π²Π΅. Она примСняСтся ΠΏΡ€ΠΈ Π²ΠΎΠ·Π²Π΅Π΄Π΅Π½ΠΈΠΈ Ρ„ΡƒΠ½Π΄Π°ΠΌΠ΅Π½Ρ‚ΠΎΠ², Π°Ρ€ΠΌΠΈΡ€ΠΎΠ²Π°Π½ΠΈΠΈ стСн ΠΈ ΠΏΠ΅Ρ€Π΅ΠΌΡ‹Ρ‡Π΅ΠΊ. https://armatura32.ru

    Reply

Leave a Reply to BrianImmup Cancel reply